HEAVEN TANUDIREDJA FW2025: Repetition Compulsion

「Repetition Compulsion」

Heaven Tanudiredja (born 1982) is an Indonesian-born fashion designer based in Bali. He studied womenswear at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. Before launching his own label in 2007, he trained at John Galliano’s Paris atelier, then gained experience working with Christian Dior Haute Couture and at Dries Van Noten’s studio. In 2018, he showcased his womenswear collection at Tokyo Fashion Week.

This season’s collection is titled “Repetition Compulsion” referencing the psychological phenomenon where individuals unconsciously repeat traumatic experiences, triggering behavioral and physical reactions. The title reflects Heaven’s exploration of this human trait and serves as a personal reflection on his body of work to date.

Heaven explains: “I don’t want to go into detail about these events, but they are an essential part of the creative process. Only by channeling those memories into my work can I truly feel fulfilled.”

Each piece in the collection represents a unique, recurring traumatic memory. The garments feature structured silhouettes—such as dresses and jackets crafted from repeated panels—along with armor-like waists made from delicate fabrics. Bold patchwork dresses constructed from past pieces also appear, symbolizing the cyclical nature of trauma.

This season holds significant personal meaning for Heaven, as it marks a year filled with transformative experiences. His background in jewelry design is strongly reflected in the collection. One notable element is the silver chain shaped like a spine, which recalls a similar motif from his 2012 collection. The hand motif also reappears throughout the collection.

In contrast to the armor-like pieces, a teddy bear bag adorned with finely sewn sequins symbolizes the fragility of childhood. The juxtaposition of this softness against the tougher designs highlights the emotional depth of the collection. Additionally, this season sees an expansion into menswear, with eight looks added to the lineup.

This collection also marks Heaven’s third collaboration with Grounds, further emphasizing their shared commitment to craftsmanship. The iconic Grounds shoes are embellished with sequins and silver jewelry, while the collection features hand-sewn sequin knit uppers and teddy bear-motif bags, crafted from the same material used in the shoes’ knit uppers.

– HEAVEN TANUDIREDJA

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