Date 03.03.2022

MERYLL ROGGE FW2022: puzzling new etiquettes

Poor connection

‘Out of focus, deformed or randomly juxtaposed – what happens when we see ourselves through the glitches and poetic malfunctions of our screens? This collection explores a beautifully distorted vision of our everyday realities and the surreal narratives it creates. Hosted as an impromptu cocktail party, it is made of imaginative approximations: situations and habits overlap, rules are happily abolished to compose a pleasingly puzzling new etiquette.

Day looks take on an evening-like sense of glamour: revisiting the cuts and details of sport jerseys leads to unexpectedly sophisticated floor-length v-neck polo shirts and pastel color blouses, all in technical knits. Seemingly familiar soccer-inspired prints in bold geometric shapes become all-over patterns covering outerwear jackets and coats.

It’s all a matter of perception – delving into the beauty of the bland; a palette of neutrals unfolds across trench coats, classic men’s shirting poplins and washed-out denims. Corduroy weaves and leopard prints appear as new classics. Tried and true Shetland knits, lovingly worn out present their delicate rips and tears, as for a fittingly dubbed “broken heart cardigan”.

But the spirit and fantasy of nightlife is never far away: photo prints on shirts evoke the beautiful chaos of an artificially lit club scene. An exaggerated ruffled tuxedo shirt convenes memories of disco while sparkling gold studs trim suede shirts and trousers.

Who wears what? As guests swap clothes and identities, conventions and traditions are deconstructed and fancifully reassembled. A glove becomes a stole, two lace-trimmed charmeuse slip dresses merge into one while an up-cycled blanket makes up a hood.

Unfolding throughout the pages of a photo book, drawing from Cindy Sherman’s Play of Selves (1972) and old-fashioned dance manuals, this collection celebrates our failures and successes in socializing, our attempts to establish connections.’

– Meryll Rogge