• Jivika Biervliet

  • HyunYeu

  • Melissa Siegrist

  • Sjaak Hullekes

  • Marije de Haan

  • Nieuw Jurk

  • Winde Rienstra

  • Bas Kosters

Date 06.02.2012

AMSTERDAM FASHION WEEK FW2012: conclusion & highlights

A crowded Amsterdam Fashion Week FW2012 left one question remaining until its next summer edition, can there be a united front for commercial and young designers?

With an ascendant role within the city’s socio-cultural activities, the event got more recognition as a happening city, seducing a social audience in a democratic way. Absolutely segregated, one front is represented by upcoming designers proving future exports under a national identity with creativity as their arsenal. The focus is not precisely about the other front, big commercial strategies (far away from being luxurious) that actually manipulate the local runway and filtrate in order to profit fashion’s flamboyant arena. Ripping-off the international high-end and turning it into a local story will remain visible no matter visitor’s latitude and longitude.

One brave Amsterdam label with smaller ambitions attempted to style (replicate) the same way our Benelux Antwerp based designer Haider Ackerman works – it was corny and uncomfortable being situated there. Meanwhile menswear collections were dominating the runway, and new designers where delivering the magnetism a global viewer could value. When giving recognition to Amsterdam as a fashion city, new designers had often interesting presentations oppressed by a small venue and an overdose of celebrities posing outside before their next comprehensive show started.

Moving these two fronts and alternating positions in the coming months will be decisive and challenging, as convincing some BN’er (Bekende Nederlander – aka media well-known Dutch celebrity) a fashion week isn’t their commodity culture playground and they should accept being seated second row. Seeing the event’s motto as a business terrace and injecting perspective fortunately will be for the contemporary designers, instead of developed labels by investor groups with financial intermediary backing. Escalating within European fashion weeks as planned will require Amsterdam to choose and dedicate deeper in one of these two fronts. Amsterdam is a city of energy and creativity; indeed it’s main recognizable charm worldwide. We have local-regionalism and we have internationalism, desiring the second one as the crystallized answer.