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  • Eloïse Ise: Ise’s rich approach to fabrics is not necessarily measuring them, but rather to make modern voluminous shapes for the free men she dreams about. Fashion seems irrelevant for the handsome user, but comfort and style give him a unique, elegant confidence. The so-called feminine gowns were fully appropriated by the urban person who dresses unisex without questioning society’s pluralism on genders. Internship: Marques’Almeida, London (UK)

  • Eloïse Ise

  • Eloïse Ise

  • Félicie Pythoud: Searching for individuals while ignoring the digital parasites that influence us daily is Pythoud’s main concern. Let your immune system hold the uniqueness you own, men! Ripping and interweaving on fabrics, Pythoud creates a new gentleman, redefining him in times of women’s emancipation. A natural activist on masculinity who dares to dictate awareness on male classics by reinventing them. Internship: Gold Label Vivienne Westwood, London (UK)

  • Félicie Pythoud

  • Félicie Pythoud

  • Jill Bloch: Bloch suggests a good summer can be the doorway to an excellent winter, and, please, don’t forget to act as if you own a season-less style. Emotional outdoor memories are still to be told again and again, like those garments you wore once and they became a timeless mate. The female influence from her own family played a relevant role on designing, especially Mamie who is still wearing red lipstick even to go for a walk with the dog, as the designer said. Internship: Sonia Rykiel, Paris (F)

  • Jill Bloch

  • Jill Bloch

  • Lina Ruble: To endlessly get lost in clubs queuing for fun is an effortless experience, paid for by checking the crowd and wondering what is ‘bad taste’. Within teenage subcultures, those are the bodies Ruble aims to dress, that annoying silhouette that proves “There is only one step between Love and Hate”. Though I personally ended loving the looks, stereotypes are something we should all reject; and prejudices will disappear after loving what we initially hate. Internship: Devon Halfnight Leflufy, Antwerp (Belgium)

  • Lina Ruble

  • Lina Ruble

  • Melvin Zöller: When the first look passed I noticed that luminous Lurex dress in combination with a garland was just the flamboyant beginning of a never-ending hiking tale. Zöller brought hiking to the next peak instead of to the next level. Springing back-and-forth between typical hiking clothing and classic couture elements totally worked. Heels and padded skirts were far away from an official female moment, it all looked butch-wearable and playful instead. Internship: KENZO, Paris (F)

  • Melvin Zöller

  • Melvin Zöller

  • Paolo Pilat: Pilat’s designs were evaporating Paris, oh oooooui! The excellent casting walked in full arrogance, something we all did accept. In the end, it was all on the applied materials and patterns where Pilat told us an impressive romance we deeply felt. He was distant himself, but his garments were seeking comfortable chic solutions for the days ahead of us. That khaki washed silk shirt-dress brought more than one seating first row to whisper with desire. Swiss artist Heidi Bucher inspired Pilat as well, who also experimented with latex and mother-of-pearl colors for her clothing and space sculptures.

  • Paolo Pilat

  • Paolo Pilat

Date 26.03.2017
Title

Basel’s Institute of Fashion Design: DOING FASHION 2017’s let’s get physical – Text by OG

With Switzerland strategically gaining territories into the fashion map by now officially hosting VETEMENTS’s HQ in Zurich, design hub Basel made its own contribution. A week ago, they delivered impeccable fashion practices at the Institute of Fashion Design by presenting twenty-two graduates under the title LOOK THERAPY

Models circulated through three ongoing performance sages in what used to be an impressive railway warehouse. Hunting for your favorite look was a bit like spotting the right set of pretty eyes when cruising nightclubs before the Internet killed the physical affairs we used to enjoy while having fun. Don’t forget– not all cats are black in the night! Guests, both seated and standing, took to the dance floor, also adding to the feeling of a packed club, as attendance was as high as 650 people per show. On roller skates, collections entered the venue weaving through human tunnels (a la Parigi). Everyone joined in the fun, flirtatious looks throughout the crowd. We were all VIPs in there!

What might have seemed like fashion’s coldest act was actually an invitation to liberate our eyes from the empty flat screen slash selfie solo world we wrongly believe in. Despite the stainless steel podiums, the challenging message from these well-trained graduates was to be wary of turning your screen into a mirror, because (watch out!) you might end up falling on the dance floor!

The strongly executed choreography by Djana Covic and Krõõt Juurak also made it clear how important one’s entry at a club is, whether alone or in a group. First, make your turn on the imaginary catwalk and then show off what a powerful clubber you are. All the models felt tremendously observed but never intimidated. This shows that “curing” or “healing” fashion need prescribe only one medicine: real contact as style therapy.

A few kilometers away, just across the German border, The Vitra Design Museum raised the question, “Have you ever met a robot?” as part of their exhibition on machines. DOING FASHION 2017 took major distance of this, remaining loyal to their slogan: ‘FIGHT MINDLESS UNIFORMITY BY BEING DEEPLY COMMITTED’

OG had the pleasure to meet all new designers (check our early, exclusive sneak-peek interviews on our Instagram), including their commitments. While we highly recommend that you explore them all, here are those we urgently need to share! Now excuse us while we get back to dancing!

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