Embossed dress in silver leather
Hybrid dress in black patent leather, the convertible piece
Synth jacket in silver leather, combined with Liquid skirt in poly satin
Synth jacket in black leather combined with Synth skirt in black leather, tomorrow’s tailler
Static jacket in black tentacle combined with Cello skirt in black micro-fiber, appliqués in acrylic
Liquid coat in Liquid metallic look fabric, combined with Synth boots in leather
IRIS VAN HERPEN’s rock-a-porter “EMBOSSED SOUNDS” for SS2014
Paris officially left behind its chaotic multi-trend spring-summer 2014 women’s collections with sequels of uncertainty. Days later reduced to just a few realistic paragraphs there are some conclusions, and its clear who had the best collections. While having lunch at Café Ruc early last week (avocado king crab, a classic during fashion week and before heading to Iris van Herpen’s showroom) some transparency already started popping up from the ladies sitting on the terrace, when I say ladies I mean between 20 – 35 years old (very young to refer to them as proper ladies), and there was hardly a fashion modernity evoked. Instead, a dominant frumpy look similar to a chic granny having her yearly holidays in the city of love.
Nothing could have been compared to my delicious salad in terms of appetite; metropolitan fashion women in general seem to ignore what others propose as tomorrow’s style. Instead, they are all trapped in a corporate chic silhouette that pulls them into a non-stop and pretty boring ageing process. Even worse, making them look more mature than they actually are. A few hundred meters away, I felt a violent change in the city’s atmosphere when I entered Iris van Herpen’s showroom.
Herpen’s second (and not first as many have mentioned) prêt-a-porter collection EMBOSSED SOUNDS for spring-summer 2014 showed the evolution all buyers expected to see in materials and product versatility. And above all the depth of quality, (consumers don’t just want printed t-shirts) clients with a serious budget are willing to unwrap without blinking, or better said, open to invest. We are talking about high prices, prices associated with purchasing craftsmanship and true love for design (real luxury).
The designer herself was working in the showroom, dressing her models while explaining the garment’s techniques; declaring that part of current fashion still has a soul and will always distance from other sounds. The masses make a party out of trends, the less intellectual or the more superficial one’s, the ones already gone, or silently evaporated.
If French houses have a look at van Herepen’s use of leather, its clear she takes a different road that doesn’t just explicitly make biker jackets. She alternates and combines them, pays homage to women, ask them to get out of high heels and walk in detailed black combat boots (silicon injected coming for men and women). She makes them feel beautiful tough. I guess its all pretty confronting for the ladies still sitting on the terrace, an absolute stampede for the women’s world!