SCHUELLER DE WAAL FW2015: baby “ooops” from a “speculative realism”
Amsterdam Fashion Week fall-winter 2015 is now behind us, and after all the vociferous social images, its Nordic echoes have produced few collections matching the market’s appetite for next season. Within the confines of the business-podium event there were still fresh young breezes that offered a more promising proposal however, with new creative merchants SCHUELLER DE WAAL exhibiting their fantasies freely. Both male talents – Philipp Schueller (1983), & Rens de Waal (1984) – are experienced in designing for big groups, and have used this experience wisely in establishing a strong vision and formula in their work: design the indefinable with beauty!
While others may daily devour millions of pixels following online trends, SCHUELLER DE WAAL stepped away from the sea of images for their inspiration. The resulting collection was ultimately satisfying, with the purity of the ideas that flood their Amsterdam based workspace manifesting in their work. There was a depth in what was just their second collection, something that is often lacking in the work of upcoming designers.
SDW’s (can we already adopt the nickname SDW?) offline wardrobe fused an intentionally erroneous use of fabrics, with the velour, neoprene and mohair combining to create an image of eclectic sexuality. Their work speaks of ambitious women with local style icon Mrs.Yo-kaw Pat (eats, does & loves) already gracing her blog with entries from SDW’s first collection. For a woman who is exquisitely picky about her choices, this is a compliment worth considering – it reflects the perception that SDW’s vision goes further than just looking in the mirror. There is a gravity that lies beneath the unconventional surface . . .
And what a surface it was! Their fabric selections delivered organic associations, from the wrapped and swaddled body to the exhibited and explicit slip-up – ooops! They shaped the awkward into gorgeous details to the point of collective glorification. How this will be received, only time will tell – but once one influential female agrees the rest will immediately feed their curiosity by having an opinion on the matter. And that’s their gesture, a positive approach for women who dare to go from colorful to monotone, from skinny to baby-doll, fully balanced or in charming chaos.