UNDERCOVER FW2013: Jun Takahashi’s one-off pieces are filled with eroticism, fetishism and immaturity
Once upon a time, Undercover’s Jun Takahashi used to define his company’s slogan as “lab”. After two years of having the understandable street-wear on his radar, the Japanese designer has powerfully caught up with his own soul and returned to this vision. The special one-off pieces sent down the runway in his last fall-winter 2013 Paris show perfectly mixed elegant, while sexy and feline, ready-to-wear styles. They are the product of the “lab” vision, where hours of work and obsessive construction bring creativity to a boiling state (dissected vintage lingerie and white shirt collars rebuilt into couture references).
Here we notice a return to Takahashi’s strongest signature with his work evoking the rigid “punk” aspects that “U” lovers will be familiar with, as well as the “noisy” BRUIT style he displays in most of his intarsia pieces for men. We also see the reiterated harshness that has defined his aesthetic (see a vertebral column turned into a gold necklace, skeletal prints or jacquards). Influential consumers, and above all trend predictors are ready for the unique creativity displayed by Takahashi – even though stocks are priced over 5.000 euros in stores.