Date 08.04.2015

YOHJI YAMAMOTO FW2015: cocoonish oversized sleeves to hide her emotions

Big dresses encapsulating spectacular drama, fabric contrasting and emotionless… this is where Yohji Yamomoto’s two distinct worlds of Paris and Tokyo meet!

The black wraps seemed to have been just adjusted by Yohji Yamamoto himself backstage, before being paraded in front of a public that had no option but to accept the natural change as the body and mind flows. His “Made in Japan” dresses brought a furious metamorphosis – from the architecture of his native Tokyo to Paris, and assembled a world where skyscrapers grow like mushrooms across their master’s world.

The use of tango-red left a hint of trapped passion beneath the multi-black silhouettes. Here Yamamoto’s fluid tailoring communicated his timeless signature – look good and walk at ease. Ignore. When black velvets combined with white poplins, the masculine side of his women showed the freedom that Yamamoto’s real female always evokes. The conversation created with a reduced number of fabrics was communicative enough to notice how versatile his school remains. If there were hints of the past, they were camouflaged and turned into absolute youth.

His knitwear charmed in blue, violet and emerald, before the military jacket parade escorted the final mega-dresses as we climbed from comfortable ready-to-wear into haute-culture. Once awarded for his “Significant contribution to the enrichment of the French cultural inheritance” – Ordre des Arts et des Lettres – we could say he perfectly mixed them both.